Adaptation calls for flexibility, and the spirit of the Andes seems to be found in the local people's ability to take the fickleness of nature in stride. Equininoxes may appear with perfect predictability, but the next cloudburst (or volcanic eruption for that matter) cannot. The endless cycles are also about taking the long view. Although the eruption of El Reventador initially hampered local farmers' ability to work the land, the mineral rich ash is perhaps nature's finest fertilizer. Already, the fruits of this massive seeding is being seen, at least in Cayambe. Crops are growing taller, barren trees have produced fruit, and flowers are blooming more vibrantly.

After about 30 mintues of driving in the high altitude tundra or paramos, we began a slow descent. Suddenly, we came upon a chain link barrier in the road, next to which was a small brick hut. Two young boys came out and wrote down our license plate on a small pad. This was the Oyacachi control center, we surmised.

From this point, our descent became steeper. In the mountains off to our right, we could make out a giant waterfall dropping over 100 meters. After a curve in the road lined by the now lush vegetation, the town of Oyacachi finally came into view.

Oyacachi is nestled in a narrow, green valley surrounded by towering hills. The town is tiny with a population of about 300 people. The people mostly exist on agriculture, animal husbandry and trout farming. Recently, eco-tourism has become a welcome mainstay for the villagers. Not only does eco-tourism supplement the villagers' income, but it relieves the pressure on the primary growth forest to give way to more farmland.

Oyacachi was founded over a hundred years ago and maybe earlier as a waystop for people journeying from the Andes to the Amazon basin (In town, local guides can arrange exhilirating 2-3 day tours from Oyacachi to the Amazon retracing this path). Stone ruins of older settlements still remain and can be easily visited.

The climate in Oyacachi is slightly cooler than in the intercordillera Andean valleys, reflecting its higher altitude of 3200 meters. Nevertheless, the climate does not feel quite chilly thanks to the protective effects of the surrounding cliffs which block the prevailing winds from affecting the town.

A river of crystal clear water bisects the town and spectacular waterfalls are present everywhere. Wildlife of the region include the Andean bear, fox and deer and hundreds of bird species.

Upon arriving, we made a beeline for the hot springs Oyacachi is famous for. After paying an entrance fee of $1 USD, we crossed a wooden hanging bridge and entered the spa complex. The springs were built with the assistance of an international aid fund. There are five wading pools. We found them to be clean and well maintained. The spring water was very hot though some in our party complained that it wasn't scaldingly hot (you can't please them all!). A river flowing next to the hot springs provided us with the pore-opening opportunity to juxtapose bathing in frigid waters with the natural heat of the hot springs.

After an hour of relaxing our muscles in the springs, which on this weekend day was crowded with visitors from Quito, we made our way back into the main part of Oyacachi. There are no restaurants at the moment or hotels for that matter. Instead for lunch, Maria, a local, offered us a delicious meal of trout with rice, potatoes and salad for $2 USD a plate which we ate inside her home. The food was delicious and the atmosphere quaint.