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A Visit to Cotacachi: a Volcanic Lake, a Historic City and Bargain Leather Goods
Cotacachi church
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At the end of our ride, our tickets granted us a complimentary cup of coffee. As we sipped our coffee and looked upon the lake, we realized how fun it would be to spend the day kayaking on this lake, circumnavigating the islands at one's leisure. We asked our guide about this potential, and he expressed interest in offering kayaking adventures in the future.

We proceeded to a nearby museum, located up a hill from the docks, which provided information on the the Cotacachi-Cayapas Ecological park. Most informative and well organized, the museum was definitely worth a visit. One of the things we learned was that the park, due to its location straddling the Andes' Western cordillera, encompasses both high altitude Andean topography as well as pristine cloud forests and tropical jungle. As we emerged from the museum, a local band provided live musical entertainment on a terrace overlooking the lake.

Another adventure to be experienced at Lake Cuicocha is a four hour hike around the perimeter of the crater. From what I have been told, the hike is fantastic, especially when performed early in the morning; During the early hours, there is less cloud cover and the lake reflects a surreal deep blue color. The hike is also known as a great bird watching experience, especially given that condors can be sometimes seen flying high overhead. In order to get a taste of the experience, we decided to tackle a small portion of the hike. The verdict: great fun, awesome vistas but proper hiking boots are necessary as the terrain is gravelly and slippery.

We departed the park, which, by the way, has a car entrance fee of a dollar, and headed for the town of Cotacachi. Cotacachi lies in a dry, temperate valley 100 kilometers or so from Quito. The town has recently been blessed with a makeover of sorts, mainly due to Auki Tituaña's vision and efforts. Early in his tenure, Tituaña identified tourism as a means for the town's economic development, and, as a result, one can notice a difference in the town's presentation. Cotacachi is well-organized, clean and marked with plenty of informational signs.

Shopping for leather jackets

 

It was around 2 in the afternoon when we pulled up into a municipal parking lot located in the heart of Cotacachi. Famished from the morning's activities, we looked for a restaurant. To our delight, we found El Meson de las Flores located on a street bordering the Cotacachi cathedral. An open-air courtyard beckoned us in. Once inside, we were impressed by its well-maintained Spanish architecture and floral arrangements. The ambiance of the restaurant reflected its advertised motto: "A place where time stood still, and where peace has turned into a flower." The service was friendly and efficient, and the food was authentically delicious. To boot, we got to meet the owners, Mr. and Mrs. Cordoba. A delightful older couple, of the landed gentry sort, they treated us like old friends. We were invited into their home, which is part of the larger Hosteria Meson de las Flores. Ms. Elsa Cordoba gave us a brief history of her house and the hosteria, which is basically an old hacienda handed down over generations and eventually converted into a guest house. I was intrigued to find out that our host's husband ran against Tituaña for mayor of the town.

After lunch, which had extended to a leisurely two hours, we decided to visit the local leather markets located only a few blocks away. Given our time limitations, we only stopped at the one store which was recommended by Ms. Cordoba. Sufficiently impressed with the merchandise, we spent over $200 USD on various leather bags- a garment bag, a carry-on luggage piece and two computer bags. Given the high quality and bargain prices, I am sure that if we had stayed longer, we would have purchased a few of the sharp-looking leather jackets hanging near the entrance. Yes, my companion had that look in her eye.

After piling our merchandise into the car, we realized it was already 5 PM and time to head home. Our only lament of this outing was being unable to visit the town's museum and historic sites. Given it was a Sunday, most of the sites had only limited morning hours anyway. The cultural exploration of Cotacachi would have to wait for another day. We left Cotacachi satisfied; We had partaken in the region's unique outdoor recreational activities and enjoyed its urban appeal.



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