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Whitewater, White Knuckles: Rafting in the Middle of the World
(page 4 of 5)
Feelinī bad ass
Related Photo Slide


After a shaky start, everyone is settling in and feeling more confident. The bumps and dips in the water are taken in stride, with people more or less staying in their boats now. Every so often, though, the river reasserts itself, reminding us of its power by hurling another rafter into the drink.

After an hour or so of this aquatic roller-coaster, the group is ready for a break. We paddle to shore by a sand bank and refuel on chocolate bars and peanuts. Everyone is soaked but exhilarated, full of accounts of the treacherous passage. Just about everyone has been thrown into the water by now.

"Holy S***, that was scary," says Ohio State junior Adrienne Snyder, one of those pitched out of the raft in the opening moments of the trip.

"At first it's scary, but then after the first few rapids, it's like 'Yea! Bring it on! It makes you feel bad ass!" said another rafter.

The guides seem pleased with how their crews have performed. Conversely, the group is impressed with the cool professionalism the guides have shown under these trying conditions. For many, this is their first time in rapids of this magnitude, measuring between three and four on the whitewater scale (with five being the most extreme, technically demanding water). It is at times like this when experience really matters, and Ecuador Adventure is unchallenged in this area.

"We've been doing this for 15 years," says Alfredo, noting that his outfit also offers rafting and kayaking adventures in the Amazon, the coast and Galapagos.


After our break, we resume. A few quiet patches along the way give us the rare opportunity to take our eyes off the roiling water to admire the lush vegetation lining the banks of the Rio Blanco. There are no houses to be seen, no road access to water's edge. The only way to see the gnarled vine and moss covered trees which crowd the shore, some growing out of the water itself, is from our vantage point in the middle of the river.

As we continue downstream, we descend in elevation, now down to 500 meters above sea level or less. The vegetation has become increasingly rainforest-like, gaining in height from an average canopy of around 20 meters to up to 40. Towering palms jut above giant ferns and other primeval flora. Aquatic birds swoop and glide over the water with an easy grace which belies the rampaging current below.

The next stretch of whitewater is perhaps the roughest of the trip. We stop again to get organized. One boat will go ahead with the video camera, stopping along the bank to shoot the others as they come by.

"Life is good here in the tropics," observes Alfredo, as we set up the camera on a boulder and wait for the other boats to hit the rapids. "Good times, good company, lots of fun. We're set."

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