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Pawkar Raymi
(page 2 of 3)
Related Photo Slide

As recently as last year, the so-called Indigenous Soccer World Cup was the principle attraction of Pawkar Raymi. Today, in order to "recuperate the true meaning of the festival" (words of César Vinueza, part of the Official Committee of the Paukar Raymi Fiestas), various cultural and educational events have been added to the celebration.

Unfortunately, we were unable to attend all the many events of the festival which took place over ten days. For example, we missed the election of the Festival Queen, or Ñusta Pawkar Raymi, which took place on Saturday, February 21, 2004. But the most transcendent was yet to come....

A Day of Water and a Night of Music and Dance

The Carnival holiday granted us some free time, during which we returned to Peguche to continue partaking in the local festivities. Upon our arrival, we became acutely aware that water was going to be the second ubiquitous element to be encountered-- with corn being the first.

Similar to other Latin American countries, dousing people with water has become a popular Carnival tradition. People throughout Peguche were ready to soak any unsuspecting passerby, and were armed with buckets, water balloons and water guns. Fortunately, our photographic gear prevented us from becoming prime targets.

After leaving our semi-soaked backpacks at a friend's house, we met one of the city's personalities, Señor Luis Pichamba, director of the musical group Ñanda Mañachi. A very friendly man, he gave us his impressions of Pawkar Raymi: "It is a cariño (gentle caress) towards friends and visitors to play with flowers and little bit of water. It is a tradition of our fathers. This festival serves to educate our children so they do not forget our customs."

Later in the evening, we entered the Peguche school where the scheduled Festival of Andean Culture was to take place. The smell of fresh chicha, tender corn on the cob and sweet liquor invited us to be a part of the party. Despite the fact that most of the people attending the event were sopping wet, the cold of the evening hours did not seem to dampen the spirit of the carnavaleros (those celebrating carnival).

After a prolonged wait, the appearance of musicians on a large metal stage focused everyone's attention in that direction. Soon, much needed music began warming the ambiance of the gathering. The appearance of a group of about 25 indigenous children, ages 6-9, dressed in traditional garb provided the event an element of tenderness. These children made up the Grupo de Danza Infantil de Niños Rumiñahui. With grace and talent they interpreted the marriage ritual of the indigenous kichwas.

 

Next,the local band and host, Ñanda Mañachi, appeared on stage accompanied by the Quiteño dance group, Ballet Andino Humanizarte. The soulful sound of rondadores, arpas, charangos and the moving words put the crowd in an ecstatic mood and transported us to Pacha Mama. The crowd seemed to unite through the universal language of music. Locals and visitors alike danced to San juanitos, albazos and other traditional rhythms.

The presentations by the international troupes were the main event and, as luck would have it, were accompanied by rain. Despite the torrential rain that soaked all of us in attendance (even further!), the groups Katari (Bolivia), Raíces Andinas (Colombia), Qosqo (Perú) and Marabú from Esmeraldas, came on stage to sing and dance non-stop.

After the show, we were privileged to meet with members of the diverse groups, many of whom were visiting Ecuador for the first time. "Our history, music and culture are one, that is why we get along so well, that is why we understand each other," commented one of the dancers from Qosqo.

With these words, one of the artists from Katari started playing his charango, while others picked up their rondadors and guitars. A private jam session was soon in full swing to our delight. Spirited dancing and sentimental sing-alongs that broke out spontaneously spoke to the ever-present feeling of a united Latin America. The party lasted until the wee hours of the morning....


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