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Feast of the Jora in Cotacachi: Maintaining Identity Through Culture
(page 1 of 2)
By Giovanna Valdivieso
Ceramic vases full of chicha lie next to the grains from which the drink is made
Related Photo Slide


COTACACHI. SEPTEMBER 19, 2004.
In the cosmovision of the indigenous people of the Andes, maize or wild corn occupies a special place. Not only is corn the staple crop for the indigenous, but maize is also a sort of deity requiring celebration and respect. In the Fiesta de la Jora, held during the Winter Equinox, an alcoholic beverage made of corn, chicha de jora, is used to praise Inti (the sun God) and to usher in the planting season. As we were to discover, chicha is the central focus of the fiesta.

In the city of Cotacachi, our destination for a weekend outing, the Jora festivities have evolved into a cultural symbol of the town and its inhabitants. The fiesta is celebrated with a plethora of cultural, sporting and ancestral events which help cement communal identity--an important buffer for a community facing a homogenizing, Wal Mart led world.

Cotacachi
Cotacachi (pop. 37,000) is located in the Imbabura province, 5 kilometers northwest of Otavalo and 100 kilometers north from Quito. The city is famous for its prolific and quality leather industry. Cotacachi presents itself as a tourist destination and rightly so. The city mixes its indigenous and colonial heritage harmoniously under the tutelage of Auki Tituaña, its indigenous mayor. First-rate hotels and restaurants are not hard to find and include the world famous resort/spa "La Mirage." In addition, natural wonders are within easy reach and include the Crater Lake Cuicocha and Mt. Cotacachi--both part of the expansive and diverse Ecological Reserve Cotacachi-Cayapas.

A Homegrown Triathlon and the Paseo del Chagra
On Saturday, Cotacahi greeted us with its colorful Confraternidad Parade. The parade encompassed local and civic bands, dance groups and scholastic presentations. On Sunday, the main festival day, we were treated to three events central to Cotacahi's festivities: the Triathlon, the Paseo del Chagra and the Best Chicha de Jora contest.

El chagra de campo

 

When we arrived to Cotacachi's central plaza, the smell of the delicious and typical carnes coloradas (seasoned pork), potato omelets and jora filled the air. The plaza was replete with onlookers waiting for the participants of the Triathlon to arrive. Cotacachi's triathlon consists of swimming the breadth of Lake Cuicocha (3 kilometers), biking from the lake to the town (19 km), followed by a 5 kilometer run. We realized this race was a less demanding, but locally relevant, adaptation of the Ironman competition. Local and national press were waiting at the finish line to interview the winner.

Soon after the end of the race, we heard the distinct tracatá-tracatá-tracatá sound as the chagras or Andean cowboys rode down the Avenue 10 de Agosto on their purebred horses. Representatives of different local families demonstrated the best of their livestock as their horses obediently performed tricks--standing on two legs, kneeling, dancing--for the adulating crowd. At the end of the procession rode the Queen of the Jora, Citlally Andrando.

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